Caring for The Row Leather, Suede and Raffia Bags
Pick one of these bags up and the absences announce themselves. Nothing to protect: no logo plaque, no coated canvas to wipe down, no heavy hardware taking the knocks. What is left is a lot of bare surface: calfskin that shows its grain, lambskin linings, suede that takes a mark from a glance, and in summer an unsealed raffia weave. With The Row bags the care burden falls almost entirely on the material rather than on a finish laid over it. That leaves them simple to look after, and unforgiving of mistakes.
What follows is organised material by material, because that is where the real decisions sit. Take a grained calfskin tote and a suede top handle from the same season and they need opposite handling, and a sisal bag asks for something else entirely.
First, an honest caveat about care instructions
Nothing resembling a public care protocol has been issued, since The Row issues none. There is neither a manual nor a published cleaning chart, and no brand-approved products are sold with them. What follows is accordingly material-appropriate general guidance, taken from the behaviour of calfskin, lambskin, suede, canvas and raffia rather than from instructions issued by the label. Approach it the way a good leather specialist does: cautiously, conservatively, and biased toward doing less. No definitive brand-issued cleaning routine exists for these bags, so anyone who presents one is filling a gap rather than quoting a source. Before anything goes onto a bag you care about, ask a professional.
What you do matters more than what you buy
Most of what ruins a good bag is routine handling, and the fixes are behavioural. With the Margaux and the Park Tote in particular, overfilling is the usual mistake, which is also the fastest way to distort a soft silhouette. The belted side gussets on the Soft Margaux are there to let you adjust the shape, not for forcing more inside. Leather dries and fades in sunlight, with radiators and car dashboards accelerating both. Unfinished surfaces suffer more from rain than people expect, and suede https://therowhandbags.net/shoulder-bags/ and raffia are close to defenceless. Sun, heat and water avoided will do more for a bag than anything sold in a bottle.
- Nothing stays in a stored bag, least of all receipts or anything that can transfer colour.
- Avoid hanging a soft bag by its handles for any length of time, because the drop will stretch.
- Corral pens, keys and cosmetics into a pouch rather than loose against the lining.
- Handle pale calfskin and untreated suede only with washed hands.
Calfskin in its four forms: smooth, grained, saddle and polished

The backbone of the line, calfskin, is also the most forgiving material in it. Scuffs and shine show on smooth calfskin and hide well on matte grained calfskin, and polished saddle leather sits between them. Routine care stops at a soft dry cloth after use, worked with the grain, with attention to the corners and base where dirt collects. Sparingly and infrequently are the operative words for a neutral conditioner, tested first on a hidden panel. Darkening, tackiness and lost structure are what over-conditioning buys you. Dark denim also transfers dye onto pale calfskin, so keep light-coloured bags away from indigo, and never scrub a transferred mark, since scrubbing spreads it.
Inside jobs: nappa and lambskin
Because they appear more often as linings than exteriors, the approach to protecting them changes. Lambskin lines the Margaux Shoulder; the Bourse Clutch has a calfskin exterior and a nappa lining — so the softest material in the bag is the one your keys sit against. Each is exceptionally soft, each marks easily, and neither one responds to being worked on. A soft dry cloth, applied lightly and rarely, is the whole treatment. Because these hides are already supple, conditioner should be avoided altogether, since over-treatment leaves a greasy sheen that will not come out. The protection that works is a pouch inside the bag, never something rubbed onto it.
Suede: where the care burden peaks
A consistent premium attaches to suede at this label and comes with a matching increase in care. The gap is plain in observed 2026 market prices: India 10.00 sits at $3,850 in leather against $5,370 in suede, and Agnes 15 is $5,000 in leather against $5,800 in suede. The nap is what you are paying for, and it flattens, absorbs and stains more readily than any finished hide. Caring for suede is mechanical, not chemical, which is the thing most owners miss. Used gently and in one direction, a dedicated suede brush lifts the nap and takes off surface dust, and and that on its own covers most routine wear. Anything wetter goes to a professional.
- A light brush along the nap after each wear, never scrubbing across it.
- Let a wet bag dry naturally at room temperature, away from radiators and hairdryers, then brush the nap back up once it is fully dry.
- Take dry marks off with a suede eraser, using minimal pressure.
- Pass anything oily, coloured or set to a leather specialist rather than having a go at it yourself.
The list of things never to put on suede is short and absolute: no leather cream, no conditioner, no wet wipes, no soap and no water-based cleaner. All of them either mat the nap or leave a ring that catches every light. Over a year, regular brushing beats any treatment, which makes prevention, not repair, the realistic standard.
Raffia and sisal, canvas and nylon, silk and satin
Buy these knowing they are the least serviceable materials the brand uses. Because these are not tanned surfaces, conditioning is meaningless and a stained panel cannot be refinished. Solvents and hard scrubbing distort the weave of canvas and nylon and leave a clean patch that reads as damage, even though both wear well otherwise. Silk and satin pieces — the small evening bags and knotted crossbody shapes among them — mark permanently from water and skin oils. On every one of these, spot-cleaning with a barely damp cloth and prompt blotting is as far as home treatment should go. Because there is no repair to fall back on, keep them out of the rain and away from sunscreen.
| Material | Everyday care | Never |
|---|---|---|
| Calfskin in grained and smooth form | Soft dry cloth; neutral conditioner sparingly and rarely | Frequent conditioning; soaking a stain |
| Nappa and lambskin | Light pressure, dry soft cloth, nothing else | Anything creamy or conditioning |
| Suede surfaces | Suede brush and eraser; professional cleaning for stains | Creams, soap, wet wipes and water-based cleaners |
| Raffia, sisal, canvas, nylon | Spot-clean, blot, and let it air dry | Dunking, solvents, or scrubbing hard |
| Silk and satin | Professional care; keep them dry | Any do-it-yourself cleaning |
Hardware and linings, the overlooked parts
What needs protecting is the finish: the hardware is palladium-plated with a matte or brushed surface. Metal polish is made for shine and will burnish a deliberately soft surface into something that no longer matches the bag. Buckles and feet want nothing more than a dry cloth, and drying whenever they get wet, so moisture never sits in the join. Engraved buckles and base feet on the Margaux trap dust in their recesses, and a soft brush clears it better than a cloth. The cotton herringbone linings in the Soft Margaux 10 and 12 should be vacuumed out, never washed. Look at the stitching where the handles meet the body every so often, because spotting a loose thread early turns a large repair into a small one.
Between wears: storage that works
Most quiet deterioration happens in storage, and the fix is cheap. Use the dust bag that came with it, with light stuffing so the shape holds and the sides do not stretch. Use acid-free tissue, or a soft cotton scarf; newspaper does not, since the ink transfers. Keep bags upright on a shelf instead of stacked beneath others, since the silhouettes hold shape empty and give way under weight. A dark, dry, ventilated space is the aim, and no sealed plastic boxes, which trap humidity against leather. Because form comes back to a bag that rests, rotating what you carry matters more than owners expect.
When to hand the bag to a professional
Maintenance and restoration are divided by a clear line, and crossing that line at home is precisely how good row handbags get ruined. A leather specialist should take anything involving colour loss, ink, oil, water rings on suede or a stretched handle. Structural work belongs there too: loose stitching at a stress point, a lining torn away from its seam. Because techniques built for coated canvas do not transfer, find out whether the specialist has handled unlogoed luxury calfskin. The right specialist tests discreetly and says plainly when a mark will not come out cleanly, because untreated hide holds some marks for good. A single competent intervention costs less than the resale discount a botched home attempt leaves behind.

